How to: The V2 Piston Swap

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How to: The V2 Piston Swap

Post by Revelation » Fri Apr 21, 2006 3:54 pm

Please do this at your own risk! It's why we have airsoft techies!

A common occurrence with upgraded guns (and stock) is a piston failure. This happens more frequently for those who are running poly-pistons with upgraded springs. With upcoming OPs in the horizon, heres the quick replacement guide to get your gun back into the action during downtime.

When will you know if you "blown/stripped" a piston? Normally, the gun will sound like free-spinning gears and the nozzle will still cycle. Othertimes the gun will just lock up because of the left over plastic.

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(Above: the ever-so-famous defective systema red piston, below: my shiney new and improved Guarder piston)

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(Another comparison pic with TM's stock piston)

Ok, lets get started.

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Go ahead and split the reciever off. This depends on what metal body you have. If youre lucky enough to have a G&P, just remove that one screw. Hurricanes will require some work to get off.

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Whatever you have, get it down to the lower reciever.

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Remove the heatsink.

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Now remove the motor.

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Unscrew the grip off. (Tip: try to keep the screws remained in the grip, it will save you some time)

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Don't forget the bolt cetch.

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Now, flip the box over like in the pic above. Keep the grip and reciever below the mechbox. Again, this will save you time.

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Reset the gears if possible (pulling back on the anti-reversal latch). Then stick your screw driver in the spring guide so the thing wont fly out.

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Start to crack it out. Going from the right to left.

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Decompress the spring and remove it.

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Make sure the shims are in the EXACT place they were. Sometimes they like to stick to the other shell. Give her a good clean'n. Putting fresh lube is always a good thing ;)

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Remove the piston.

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Insert piston head. (Tip: if you are using bearing-type piston heads... put it together as one, then drop it in)

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Lube up the piston and piston head.

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Lube up the gear ends.

While putting preasure on the cylinder, push in the spring and insert its notches to the shell. Now place the shell on the box (going left to right). Sometimes it takes a couple tries. It should sit flat with little (or no) movement.

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Insert main body pin and reciever pin. If you forget to do this in order, your grips will be over-tight and your mag cetch may not work properly.

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Assemble the motor back, bolt cetch... and vola!

You can do this is about 20 minutes. Make sure you have sometime to keep your nuts and bolts in. This could be a life saver.

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Post by Elvis » Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:16 pm

Rev - Awesome job.
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Post by Chadwick » Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:19 pm

I have to do all this just to replace the piston head?
So, as Woodstock rocked on and the boomers got all wild on their weed, the M16 continued to be, and continues to be, the military's weapon of choice - for some weird, unexplainable reason

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Post by Wolfwood » Fri Apr 21, 2006 4:24 pm

Rev- That is top-notch stuff


Chadwick- Yes. Actually, I usually end up having a gear fall out of place and have to rebuild the whole box. This looked to be a pretty clean repair. Most repairs aren't this easy.
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Post by Downtown » Fri Apr 21, 2006 8:02 pm

Rev,

Excellent job! But I would recommend a Systema Metal Piston rather than the poly-carb's. They will last alot longer.....

But again...GREAT JOB on the repair.
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Post by Revelation » Fri Apr 21, 2006 8:41 pm

Thanks DT!

But there was a reason for my madness,

The reason why I picked my poly-piston its because of metal piston's, "inherent drawbacks of increased reciprocating weight and sector gear wear". With my gun shooting it's 350-375 fps range, I rather have a higher ROF given with poly-pistons and also preventing excessive ware on the gears. From the techies Ive had discussions with, it would be much easier to replace a piston then rather a gear set. If I was shooting a higher 400 FPS+ setup, I would most definetly look into better metal pistons. Although, from previous tries. I havent been impressed with ROF from the Systema metal piston.
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Post by Tank » Fri Apr 21, 2006 9:36 pm

Nice job Rev.

Just one thing though. The piston you have listed as stock TM isn't. It looks like a stock ICS. TM's are opaque, while ICS' are slightly translucent & softer material.
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Post by Chadwick » Fri Apr 21, 2006 10:09 pm

I need to change my piston head, But if I do this I know I will F up my gun.
So, as Woodstock rocked on and the boomers got all wild on their weed, the M16 continued to be, and continues to be, the military's weapon of choice - for some weird, unexplainable reason

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Post by Revelation » Sat Apr 22, 2006 1:16 am

Edit,

It came from Isaac's TM gun. Which I was told it was stock. Perhaps its the camera flash if it isnt.

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Post by Chadwick » Thu May 04, 2006 7:29 pm

I can get the mech box back together. It wont close, does anyone know what the problem might be. I know this is kinda vague.
So, as Woodstock rocked on and the boomers got all wild on their weed, the M16 continued to be, and continues to be, the military's weapon of choice - for some weird, unexplainable reason

LT Tahoe

Post by LT Tahoe » Sun May 07, 2006 8:17 pm

Make sure all the axles (gears, A-R latch) are lined up. Make sure the piston is fitted into the grooves in the mechbox. Make sure the tappet plate is placed in its grooves. Make sure the cylinder head is correctly placed. Make sure the spring guide is aligned so the pins fit into the grooves in the mechbox.

If all those don't do it, post again and we can try something else.

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Post by Chadwick » Sun May 07, 2006 8:55 pm

now i can get it to gether, but i lost the anti reverse spring
So, as Woodstock rocked on and the boomers got all wild on their weed, the M16 continued to be, and continues to be, the military's weapon of choice - for some weird, unexplainable reason

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